Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
